Northern New Mexico New Route Infomation

 

Taos Area

A big thank you to the Mountain Skills Guides who established most of these routes. Also Thanks to Mad Rock Climbing! Without thier many contributions many of these new routes would not have come to fruition. See Taos Rock for area maps and driving directions.Visit Mountainproject.com for more info and photos.

John Dunn Bridge Area

(See Taos rock for detailed map and driving directions)

 

Old Stage Coach Wall:

Located directly accross the river and slightly upstream from River Wall, and faces east. Drive Across the John Dunn Bridge, turn right, park, and hike upstream. See Taos Rock for cliff photo, map, and detailed driving directions. Visit Mountainproject.com for more new route info.

Sunburned 5.9*** Climbs the south face of The Prow formation. Start five feet left of The Prow and climb corner to 2nd bolt, then folow up nice red face to a two bolt anchor with chains. 5 bolts. FA: Dan Greenwald 2011.

New Buffalo Wall

The hot spot for winter climbing in Taos, This wall gets late morning sun and holds it until sunset.  Located about10 minutes above John’s wall and about 5 minutes walk climber’s left of The Solar Asylum. Approach from the diagonal trail originating above John’s Wall or drive to the top. PLEASE LEAVE CARABINERS AT ANCHORS THEY ARE FOR YOUR LOWERING (not toproping) CONVINIENCE.

Routes listed left to right.

Klien’s Crack* 5.9 (Jay, Joel, Javier)
Trad crack located on southeast facing buttress with splitter layback middle section. Loose rock ledge near top. No anchor, walk off.

Guano Hermano?* 5.10+
Farthest sport route to the left with a steep start and a steep finish. Funky crux at the first bolt. 6 bolts, chain anchor.

Unamed 5.9 (Joel Tinl, Jay)
Sport route 15 feet right of Guano. Black corner below leads to pocketed face above.
Heads up for loose rock on ledge at top. 4 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.

The Hand Crack**5.10+ (Joel, Jay)
A Steep splitter hand crack in left facing corner with loose bubble rock on bottom.

Unfinished 5.12
Bolt line right of arête. Missing first 2 bolts. Two bolt anchor.

Toprope 5.11
Seem exits left side of roof. Chain anchor.

 Inauguration Day*** 5.12b (Jay, Javier)
Sport route up steep, left leaning, pocketed face. First three bolts up steep face. Crux with hard clip above ledge on smooth brown rock. 6? Bolts. Anchor.

Joel’s Crack* 5.9 ( Joel Tinl)
Bubble rock to start leads to wishbone splitters then more bubble rock to finish. Avoid putting gear in left crack that is formed by a detached block. Climb and protect right hand crack.

Tarantula** 5.12-/5.11 (Jay, Javier)
A bouldery first bolt leads to easier climbing above. It is possible to start this route in a trad crack to the left then traverse into the second, making the overall grade 5.11. Steep climbing to a fixed chain on a slab above. 6bolts. Chain anchor.

Philosipher’s Stone*** 5.10 (Jay, Joel, Javier)

Courtesy Reach Around *5.10-(Jay,Steve Laycock)

Ongietorri* 5.10- (Javier Abad, Jay,Joel)

Joels Sport 5.10 (Joel,?)

Jackalope*** 5.11-(Jay, Kevin Ormerod)

Vortex ***5.11c (Jay, Joel)

Tradtex**5.10 (Jay ,Joel)

The Alchemist** 5.11+ (Kevin, Jay)

Unnamed 5.6 ( Joel, Jay)

 

The Old Buffalo Wall

Buffalo Crack*** 5.10 (Jay, Paul Judges, Guy Seeley)

Off And Running*** 5.11+ (Spike Lynch)

Unamed *** 5.10 (Jay, Paul)

 



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