John Dunn Bridge Area
Northern New Mexico New Route Info
A big thank you to the Mountain Skills Guides who established most of these routes. Also Thanks to Mad Rock Climbing! Without thier many contributions many of these new routes would not have come to fruition. See Taos Rock for area maps and driving directions.Visit Mountainproject.com for more info and photos.
John Dunn Bridge Area
(See Taos rock for detailed map and driving directions)
Old Stage Coach Wall
Located directly accross the river and slightly upstream from River Wall, and faces east. Drive Across the John Dunn Bridge, turn right, park, and hike upstream. See Taos Rock for cliff photo, map, and detailed driving directions. Visit Mountainproject.com for more new route info.
Sunburned 5.9*** Climbs the south face of The Prow formation. Start five feet left of The Prow and climb corner to 2nd bolt, then folow up nice red face to a two bolt anchor with chains. 5 bolts. FA: Dan Greenwald 2011.
The New Buffalo Wall
The hot spot for winter climbing in Taos, This wall gets late morning sun and holds it until sunset. Located above and right (East) of John’s wall on the South rim of the Hondo Gorge, about 5 minutes climber’s left (West) of The Solar Asylum. Approach by scrambling up through a notch on the left side of John’s Wall. Then follow a faint carined trail that diagnals up and right (East) ( 10 to 15minutes). It is also possible to drive a sieries of dirt roads and park at the top of the cliff, this make for an easier walk but a longer drive. PLEASE LEAVE CARABINERS AT ANCHORS THEY ARE FOR YOUR LOWERING (not toproping) CONVINIENCE.
Routes listed left to right.
Klien’s Crack* 5.9 (Jay, Joel, Javier)
Trad crack located on southeast facing buttress with a splitter layback middle section and steeper bubble rock at start. low anchor. Standard single rack.
Guano Hermano?* 5.11-
Farthest sport route to the left with a steep start and a steep finish. Funky crux at the first bolt. 6 bolts, chain anchor.
Law of Equality** 5.10 (Jay , Joel) Sport route located five feet right of Guano Hermano. Steep steming through corner. When the angle decresses after the third bolt it is possible to move right out of corner on fun hidden holds. 5 bolts?, chain anchor.
Commune Corner** 5.10- (Joel Tinl, Jay)
Sport route 15 feet right of Guano. Black right facing corner below (crux) leads to pocketed face above. 4 bolts. 2 bolt anchor.
Spanish Cross* 5.11- (Jay, Joel) This sport route starts about six feet right of Comune Corner. Start left of chossy weenkess in steep rock and make first clip from big holds left of bolt, then traverse right into corner and head straight up. heads up for loose rock on ledge below anchor. shares anchor with Genesis.
Genesis**5.9 (Joel, Jay)
A Steep splitter hand crack in left facing corner with loose bubble rock on bottom. Rack up with double set of hand size cams.
Tatanka 5.12-** (Jay)
Sport route located twenty feet right of Genesis at bottom of slope. A steep start leeds to technical sequential climbing up a smooth face right of arete. bolt anchor.
Just right of Tatanka a seem exits left side of roof. Chain anchor. Easier if tall, reachy crux!
Inauguration Day*** 5.12b (Jay, Javier)
Sport route up steep, left leaning, pocketed face left of arete. Follow the first three bolts up steep face to a ledge. then step left to gain Crux with hard clip above ledge on smooth brown rock. 6 Bolts. Anchor. this is the first route you come to on approach trail.
Joel’s Crack* 5.9 ( Joel Tinl)
Bubble rock to start leads to wishbone splitters then more bubble rock to finish. Avoid putting gear in left crack that is formed by a detached block. Climb and protect right hand crack. heads up for loose rock.
Tarantula** 5.12-/5.11 (Jay, Javier)
A bouldery first bolt leads to easier climbing above. It is possible to start this route in a trad crack to the left then traverse into the second bolt, making the overall grade 5.11. Steep climbing to a fixed chain on a slab above. 6bolts. Chain anchor.
Philosipher’s Face** 5.12- (TR) Toprope the smooth face between Tarantula and Philosipher Stone. Crimpy
Philosipher’s Stone*** 5.10 (Jay, Joel, Javier)
Courtesy Reach Around *5.10-(Jay,Steve Laycock)
Ongietorri* 5.10- (Javier Abad, Jay,Joel)
Joels Sport 5.10 (Joel,?)
Jackalope*** 5.11-(Jay, Kevin Ormerod)
Vortex ***5.11c (Jay, Joel)
Tradtex**5.10 (Jay ,Joel)
The Alchemist** 5.11+ (Kevin, Jay)
Un-named 5.6 ( Joel, Jay)
The Old Buffalo Wall
Buffalo Crack*** 5.10 (Jay, Paul Judges, Guy Seeley)
Off And Running*** 5.11+ (Spike Lynch)
Unnamed *** 5.10 (Jay, Paul)